Sowing the Vegetable Bed

Sowing the Vegetable Bed
Sowing the Vegetable Bed

Seeds

Now that the soil preparation is done it’s time to get sowing the vegetable bed. I have done my fair share of starting seeds indoors over the years but I’ve found the best success is to direct sow if you can. Sowing seeds is easy. Here is the methods I have used with great success.

Laying it out

I love my perfect little rows, but having a row just for one vegetable with space to walk in between is only great if you have the space. I have a 13′ x 13′ area dedicated to my veggie bed. I also grow in pots and have a separate herb bed that I grow strawberries, garlic, rhubarb, and beans in.

I plant double rows as you can see by my seed packets above. For instance, carrots and parsnips in the same row. Red and yellow onions, same row. I’m growing 3 lettuces this spring, they are all planted in a wide row. You get the idea.

Row labels

I’ve seen all the fancy plant labels on Pinterest, my labels are very simple.…a bunch of rocks and a black Sharpie marker. The fertilizer I use is Organique’s Tomato and Vegetable, completely organic, of course. As I sow the row, I sprinkle on the fertilizer. Once I’m done seeding the entire bed gets watered in.

Creating a row

Bamboo stakes

are a staple in my garden shed.

They support plants, mix solutions, clear cob webs, etc. But another use is to use them to create a straight lined impression in your soil like the picture above. Many seeds are quite tiny, like carrot or lettuce. This indentation is plenty deep for them.

Laying a row

With my indentation already made, I tap the seeds out of the packet along the row and slightly cover with soil. It’s been my experience that you

don’t need to sow very deep

with most seeds. Contact with the earth and a light dusting of soil is usually sufficient to get them started. There is however a danger in sowing them too deeply as some seeds actually are triggered to germinate when they sense light from the sun. Err on the side of caution and go a little less deep. (This is a rule of thumb that applies to spring seeding only, bulbs such as tulips and daffodils would prefer to be at their deepest side of the scale to protect from winter freezes).

Rock row markers

Once your rows are seeded, mark them so you won’t forget what’s coming up. Use a fancy marker if you wish, but these simple rocks will last for about as long as I need them to until the vegi’s can identify themselves.

Seeded rows

At the back of the bed is the potatoes, hence the piles of soil to each side. Stay tuned as I will show you

how to go vertical

to save space and get a bigger yield. Seriously, aren’t those rows just the prettiest thing you ever seen?

Potted veggies

The pots above have been planted up with Zucchini’s and Cucumbers against a nice hot wall. I chose varieties that hold themselves tall and compact to help save on space.

Pepper seedlings

Just wanted to quickly visit those seedlings I planted up weeks ago in the peat pellets. Looking good aren’t they! These have since graduated to a peat pot and will eventually be moved into a final pot on my patio.

Egg carton seeder

These were sown a week later and have not had the luxury of the full spectrum light of the seedlings above (all from the same packet). But they are doing okay as well. My thoughts about the egg carton? Not a fan and will not try it again. The carton is very mushy and hard to handle now that it’s starting to break down. In addition, it’s showing signs of molding which isn’t good either. So, for all you would be egg carton seeder’s out there, save yourself the hassle and buy the peat pellets.

The next step in my garden preparations is the annual planting and hanging baskets. Be sure to visit to see how I make these and what color scheme I’m choosing this year.

Happy Planting!

 

 

Preparing a Garden for Planting

Preparing a Garden for Planting
Preparing a Garden for Planting

Neat little rows

It’s time to get planting here in the Pacific Northwest but before we start sowing our precious little packets of seeds, we need to get the soil ready. This tutorial is for preparing a garden for planting using an old fashioned method called double digging.

If you’ve read any of my past posts on the above garden, you know I struggled horribly with it’s heavy clay soil. But thanks to proper drainage, compost and a big dose of determination, the soil is finally in great shape. It only took about a year and a half to do it.

Just before digging

Above is what the bed looked liked right before I got started. I threw a good layer of compost on this back in January which seems to have further broken down and besides a few weeds….it appears this bed is ready for digging. When I was going through school to become a Certified Horticulturist, I had a few great teachers and one of them  ( Todd Major, then director of Park and Tilford Gardens) ) drilled the importance of two things into my belief system, double digging and mulching. Both of which I follow religiously today.

Double digging

Here’s how it works, you dig a long trench starting at one end of the bed removing and piling the soil off to one side. This soil would then be carted down to the other end where it will back fill the last trench. Then you either use your spade to turn over the soil in the trench or a garden fork to loosen it. Once that is done, you begin your next trench beside the first inverting each shovel full into the trench so that the compost layer is now sandwiched between the lower loosened soil layer and the inverted soil layer.

Before and after it's dug

So what are the benefits to this method? The deep loose soil is ideal for root crops, drainage is improved, better air flow for plant root health,  and of course the mixing in of organic matter ( compost ) that provides valuable nutrients and improves soil texture.

A board for weight distribution

I work my way out backwards careful not to step on the newly dug soil, we don’t want to compact it after all that hard work do we? A couple days later after the new soil has had a chance to dry out ( remember, I have a layer of heavy clay under this bed ) I use my hard rake to ‘smash’ the dirt clods into a nice crumb. The big board above allows me to work on the soil with out compacting it by distributing my weight over a large area….yes, I take this dirt stuff seriously.

Ready for planting

After raking and removing any bits of compost that didn’t break down ( woody stems etc) and tossing any rocks bigger than a golf ball down to the other end ( I keep one side of the bed as a rock collection area), I level it and it’s ready to go.

How is this method better than a rototiller? I can get deeper than a rototiller’s standard 5″ to 8″ ( about 12″ to 18″ ). I find it’s less cumbersome to use a foot and a spade than a big heavy machine. A quick hose cleans off my tool and doesn’t require any more maintenance than that, not to mention the storage space you would need for some tillers. There’s the expense too, whether you rent or buy….hands down a spade is cheaper. And lastly, I don’t need to use oil or gas ( besides some good ol’ fashioned elbow grease ) to get the job done. I’m a digger and proud of it, hoo rah!

In my next post I will discuss how I will be laying out my rows and how I go about seeding them. Please check back soon…and happy digging.

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Sinamay Bows

Wedding Decor Part 3

How pretty are these! A sinamay bow is the finishing touch when decorating with this material, they are so simple to make and they add instant whimsy or romance to any event. To view the many ways you can use sinamay, check out the other two tutorials in my wedding series: The Sinamay Sampler and The Wedding Arbor.

 

 

Hope you enjoyed my wedding decor series….happy decorating.

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